Should You Hem Pants Before Washing?
Short answer
You generally should wash pants before hemming them to account for any shrinkage or shape changes that occur during washing. Washing first ensures you measure the true post-wash length, so your hem is accurate. Hemming before washing risks sewing pants too short if the fabric shrinks afterward.
What Does Hemming Pants Mean and Why Is It Done?
Hemming pants involves folding up the bottom edge of the pant legs and securing that fold with stitches to create a clean, finished edge. This process changes the length of the pants to fit your height and style preferences better. Hemming also prevents fabric from fraying or unraveling, which can happen over time if the edges are left raw or worn.
Pants come in different lengths, often longer than needed, especially if you buy off-the-rack. Hemming lets you customize pants to your exact leg length, avoiding dragging or bunching. It can also refresh older pants by replacing worn hems or adjusting the style, for example, switching from a wide hem to a narrow one. Hemming can be done by hand, with a sewing machine, or even with fabric glue or iron-on tape for quick fixes.
Understanding hemming as both a functional and aesthetic alteration helps you decide when to do it, especially in relation to washing.
Why Is Washing Pants Before Hemming Recommended?
Washing pants before hemming is important because many fabrics change size, shape, or texture after their first wash. Natural fibers like cotton, linen, and wool commonly shrink when washed, whereas synthetics like polyester tend to remain stable. If you hem pants before washing, you risk sewing a length that won’t be correct once the pants shrink.
For example, if you buy cotton pants that measure 34 inches long and hem them immediately to 32 inches, the pants might shrink by an inch when washed. This would leave you with pants only 31 inches long — too short for a comfortable or flattering fit. Washing first lets you see the “true” length after any shrinking or stretching, so you can hem the pants to the size you want after they settle.
Washing also removes any factory chemicals or sizing agents added to new clothes. These chemicals can stiffen fabric and affect how it behaves. Removing them by washing ensures your pants soften and relax into their natural shape before you make final adjustments.
How to Wash Pants Properly Before Hemming?
Not all washing methods are the same, and how you wash pants affects shrinkage and fabric condition. To prepare pants for hemming, follow these steps:
- Check the care label: Read the washing instructions to determine water temperature, machine settings, and drying methods recommended for the fabric.
- Choose the right water temperature: Use warm or cold water for most fabrics to prevent excessive shrinkage. Hot water may cause more shrinking, especially with cotton.
- Use gentle cycle for delicate fabrics: If pants are made of delicate materials like wool or silk, use a gentle wash cycle or consider hand washing.
- Avoid overloading the machine: Give pants enough space to move freely to wash and rinse well.
- Dry carefully: Air drying flat or hanging pants preserves shape better, while machine drying can cause more shrinkage or wrinkles. If using a dryer, use a low-heat setting.
- Iron if needed: Once dry, iron the pants to remove wrinkles and help set the fabric flat before measuring for hemming.
For example, if you have a pair of linen pants, you might wash them in cold water on a gentle cycle and hang them to dry to minimize shrinkage and fabric damage. After drying, iron the hem area to ensure crisp folds for measuring.
What Are the Steps to Measure and Hem Pants After Washing?
Once your pants are washed and dried, you can accurately measure and hem them. Here’s a detailed process:
- Wear the pants with shoes: Put on the shoes you plan to wear with the pants to get an accurate length.
- Stand on a flat surface: Stand straight with your feet shoulder-width apart.
- Mark the desired length: Use tailor’s chalk or pins to mark where the pant leg should end. The hem should rest just above the top of your shoe heel or slightly touch the shoe, depending on style.
- Measure both legs: Use a measuring tape to ensure the marks are the same length on both legs to avoid uneven hems.
- Fold the fabric: Fold the bottom of the pant leg up to the mark, creating a clean edge.
- Pin the hem: Secure the folded fabric with pins evenly spaced for a smooth, wrinkle-free fold.
- Press the hem: Iron the folded edge to create a sharp crease, making sewing easier.
- Sew the hem: Use a sewing machine or hand stitch with thread matching the pants’ color. Sew close to the folded edge, about ¼ inch in.
For example, if the pants measure 32 inches after washing and drying, and you want a 1.5-inch hem, fold up 1.5 inches, pin, press, and sew carefully for a professional finish.
When Is It Okay to Hem Pants Before Washing?
Though washing pants first is typically best, some cases call for hemming before washing:
- Delicate or specialty fabrics: If pants require dry cleaning or hand washing and hemming helps stabilize fragile edges, pre-washing hemming may be preferred.
- Decorative hems: If pants have elaborate stitching, embroidery, or embellishments on the hem, securing the hem before washing protects the details.
- Pre-washed or pre-shrunk pants: If the pants have been washed multiple times already or are labeled pre-shrunk, hemming before washing again usually won’t cause problems.
- Urgent repairs: Sometimes hemming before washing might be necessary if you must wear the pants immediately.
These exceptions are rare. For most cotton, denim, or polyester blend pants, washing first prevents future fit issues.
What Are Common Mistakes to Avoid When Hemming Pants?
Avoid these common pitfalls to ensure your pants look great and last longer:
- Hemming pants before washing without checking fabric type: This can cause incorrectly sized hems after shrinkage.
- Not reading the care label: Ignoring manufacturer advice on washing and drying can damage fabric or cause unexpected shrinkage.
- Cutting fabric too short before washing: If you cut pants to length before washing, you lose excess fabric needed for hemming after shrinkage.
- Hemming only one leg at a time: This can cause uneven pant leg lengths. Always measure and hem both legs simultaneously.
- Skipping pressing the hem before sewing: Ironing the fold makes sewing easier and helps create a sharp, professional hem.
- Using thread color that clashes: Matching thread color makes hems virtually invisible for a polished look.
Avoiding these mistakes reduces frustration and saves time.
What Other Terminology Relates to Hemming Pants?
Understanding related terms helps prevent confusion:
- Tapering: Adjusting the width of pant legs, not length.
- Taking in/letting out: Altering waist size for a better fit.
- Pre-shrunk: Fabric treated to reduce shrinkage but not always completely.
- Pressing: Ironing fabric to remove wrinkles or set folds.
- Seam allowance: Extra fabric inside seams to allow adjustments.
- Raw edge: Unfinished fabric edge prone to fraying.
- Blind hem: A hemming technique where stitches are nearly invisible from the outside.
Knowing these terms helps you communicate clearly with tailors or when reading DIY sewing tutorials.
How Can You Learn to Hem Pants Yourself?
Hemming pants is a skill anyone can learn with patience and practice. Here are ways to get started:
- Start simple: Use older or inexpensive pants for practice.
- Use step-by-step guides: Follow tutorials like How to Hem Pants by Hand or How to Hem Pants with a Sewing Machine Without Cutting.
- Watch videos: Visual demonstrations help clarify techniques.
- Invest in basic tools: Sewing needles, thread, pins, measuring tape, and a sewing machine (optional).
- Practice different hems: Try blind hems, double-fold hems, or decorative hems to build skills.
Learning hemming saves money on tailoring, extends the life of your clothes, and allows for custom style adjustments.
Frequently asked questions
Can I wash pants multiple times before hemming to prevent further shrinkage?
Yes, washing pants once or twice before hemming helps ensure most shrinkage has occurred. Avoid excessive washing, which can wear out fabric. After washing, remeasure pants length before hemming to confirm accuracy.
How do I tell if my pants are pre-shrunk and safe to hem before washing?
Check the care label for “pre-shrunk” or “preshrunk” wording. These pants have been treated to reduce shrinkage but may still shrink slightly. When unsure, washing before hemming is safest.
What if I accidentally hemmed pants before washing and they shrank?
You may need to remove the hem stitches carefully and re-hem pants after washing. If you cut fabric too short during hemming, lengthening pants later could require adding fabric or professional tailoring.
Is it necessary to iron pants before hemming?
Ironing pants before hemming helps create crisp folds and precise measurements, making sewing easier and hems neater. Press the area where the hem fold will go before pinning and stitching.
Can hemming pants alter the pant’s original style?
Yes, hemming changes length and can affect drape and silhouette. Narrower or higher hems can create different looks. Choose a hem style that complements your pants and personal style.